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Dosa Corner: South Indian Vegetarian Restaurant in Columbus Ohio
“Dosa Corner has mastered vegetarian fare from
southern India.”
The Columbus Dispatch


Dosa Corner has mastered vegetarian fare from southern India.
Thursday,  June 14, 2007

Dosa Corner: South Indian Vegetarian Restaurant in Columbus OhioWhen you crave hamburgers and French fries in a disposable wrapper, go to Wendy's.

When your hunger needs vegetables and breads delivered on throwaway plates, go to Dosa Corner.

More blue-collar than, say, another stellar vegetarian Indian restaurant in Ohio's capital - Udipi Cafe - Dosa Corner caters to eaters with little need to converse over dinner and much desire to ingest tasty carbohydrates.

Business traveler and frequent customer Ananth Sunparan, who had been razzing a friend via cell phone while finishing the mini-smorgasbord before him, offered a ringing endorsement.

"I live in Los Angeles," he said. "Last week I took food from here all the way back to L.A. It is authentic south Indian food. Very good."

Hari Narahari - who manages and owns the eight-table, 28-chair setup - creates (with the aid of a small staff) some of the most delicious southern Indian fare in central Ohio.

(That's a short "a" in Hari, by the way: "I lived in Canada for a long time," he said. "French people cannot pronounce 'HAR-ee,' so I became Harry.")

Although Hari's menu is deep with cheap and delicious entrees and breads, the dosa - a large rice-and-lentil crepe - is the star of his vegetarian show.

There's something about taking on a food item the size of a cheerleader megaphone that makes a dining experience more of an event than, say, a supper of a baked potato, a can of tuna and some bagged peas.

Still, if a 14-inch horn of vegetables isn't your speed, you have alternatives.

During a recent visit, with heavy carryout traffic entering and exiting for a solid hour, my party of two divvied up the South Indian Tali ($9.95) and Dosa Tali combos ($9.25).

On the table near a self-serve plastic pitcher of tap water: avail (a creamy mixture of carrot and eggplant); uthappam (a doughy lentil pancake); refreshing lemon rice with toasted chickpeas, peanuts, black mustard seeds and lentils; Mysore pak (a fudge like nugget so sweet your teeth will recoil at the sight of it); Medu Wada (lentil doughnuts); poori (unleavened whole-wheat flat bread deep-fried in vegetable oil); various chutneys; and gulab jamoon, a ghee-fried sugar bomb.

The one missing facet: no cold beer to put out the curry fires in our mouths.

Some diners doubled up on mango lassis (yogurt shakes), a fine way to stifle the burn. With Indian fare, though, I crave beer that scratches the throat.

Oh, great granters of liquor licenses: Please give Dosa Corner the right to sell Kingfisher beer, the crisp pilsner in the green bottle ubiquitous in all fine Indian restaurants and - as the label reads - "most thrilling chilled." abeck@dispatch.com

  1077 Old Henderson Road, Columbus, OH 43220.   Tel: (614) 459-5515    dosacorner@hotmail.com    directions  
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